Knitting Needles etc.

Someone gave me a bunch of leftover skeins of yarn, some of which have no labels. I’m not very experienced with knitting or crocheting, so I’d like to know how to tell the difference between worsted weight and sport weight yarn.

FINE: SPORT WEIGHT, BABY YARN is listed as CATEGORY 2
A light weight yarn used for babywear, sweaters, and lighter throws. UK/Australia approximate equivalent: 8 ply

Sport weight yarn and DK (double knitting) weight yarn are often viewed as interchangeable, but they do have a slight difference. As you will see on the criteria listed with the icons to the right, sport weight yarn is a teeny bit lighter or finer than DK weight. Note: the word ’sport’ is not meant in the athletic sense, but rather in the women’s sportswear sense. Use these weights for socks, accessories, shawls, wraps, and heirloom sweaters like those inspired by Norwegian ski clothing.

MEDIUM: WORSTED-WEIGHT, AFGHAN, ARAN YARN is listed as CATEGORY 4
The most popular weight for knitting and crocheting. An ideal weight for throws and many adult garments. UK/Australia approximate equivalent: 10 ply, Aran weight

Worsted weight yarn is the most widely available weight of yarn and the most frequently used. You may think it would be more aptly named ‘bested’ yarn, but the moniker was actually derived from an old town in England. At double the weight of fingering yarn, worsted weight yarn is great for knitters of all skill levels and can be worked into nearly anything. Heavy worsted weight, as you may have guessed, is just a hair heavier than plain old worsted weight. Good for the same range of projects as worsted weight.

http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/how-to-knit-6.jpg
In the pic on link above :From top to bottom: fingering, or baby, weight yarn; sport weight yarn;
DK weight yarn; worsted weight yarn; bulky, or chunky, weight yarn.

hope this helps.
p.s you can find these explanations and categories on any yarn websites.

I just finished knitting a nice scarf but the beginning is too tight and id like to redo it. if i unravel from the beginning can i just knit those lines back in or will it be facing the wrong direction? I only need to redo about 10 rows.

Thanks!

You can’t undo the first ten rows without undoing all the rows that came after them. That sounds a bit extreme for this type of problem. My best suggestion is to undo the LAST ten rows and knit them tighter or decrease a stitch or two. That way, the two ends of your scarf will match and ‘most everyone will think you did it on purpose. It’ll look fine. It’s all about the fixing, truthfully enough.

When you knit your next item, check on the tension as you go along. Lay the item out on a table and examine it after every 10-15 rows. That way, if you check yourself as you go, you’ll only have a few rows to undo to fix any problem that comes up.

Industrial sewing machine needles are categorized as DB x 1, DC x 27 etc. what is the meaning of DB in that? 1 in that? or DC in that? 27 in that? what type of needle size system is that? Does this have any connection with European or American size system?

That’s a Japanese needle system designation. I do not understand where the name comes from, but can tell you that a DBx1 is a round-shanked industrial needle. Same needle is also known as:
16×231, 16×257, 1738, 287WH, SY2254 and Canu 14:25

I’d suggest you might as Organ needles, as I believe they originated the DBx etc. designators.

Size (a function of needle blade diameter) is not the same as needle system, which specifies the length to the eye, shank type, etc.

More help:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/finding_the_right_needle_size_in_the_haystack_pt1/
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/finding_the_right_needle_size_in_the_haystack_pt2/

A friend knitted me a jumper for my birthday but its really too big and I was wondering if there was a way to shrink it ? Perhaps by soaking it in boiling water? Any suggetions? I really appriciate my friend knitting it for me and apart from being too big I really like it!

It depends on what kind of yarn she used. If she used wool, then wool will shrink. If it’s a blend or not wool, it may not shrink.

Even if it is wool, shrinking it will be a dodgy proposition and there’s no guarantee the garment will shrink to the proportions you want.

Is there any chance you can alter using regular sewing methods? A dart or a gather here and there?
Wear it with a belt? If you post a picture of the jumper, that may make it easier for people to give advice.

Good luck

I’m using a knifty knitter to make leg warmers and the yarn is getting way too tight. How do i make it looser so it’s easier?

There are several ways to keep the yarn loose. Always pull the yarn free from the ball so there is no tension on it when you wrap the loom. Hold the loop on the peg you just wrapped so you don’t pull yarn from that peg when you wrap the current peg. Another option is to wrap a peg, then knit it off, then wrap the next peg and knit it off. You can also use a yarn guide, like a short piece of a plastic straw, to wrap the pegs, so you don’t pull the yarn too tight.

For this pattern do I need to weave in each color at the end of the row or how would you do this?

http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/70263A.html?noImages=

There are two different ways to do this. The first would be to cut the yarn and weave it into the same color or just carry the "tail" along until you can cover it with the edging. The second would be to carry the color up to it’s next usage and again covering it with the edging. Now the only problem you will have in doing it this way is the skeins of yarn you will have to handle. The choice is yours but in the future check for edging or if it does not need it then cut and weave it into the same color.

My aunt gave me an old sewing machine a while back. It still works but the needle broke in half. I tried to replace the needle with another from a sewing machine that doesn’t work but the needle didn’t fit. Where can I find one and make sure it does fit (without buying a million of them)? It’s called a "Sewhandy" and from the Singer brand. It is also very small and looks like it was meant mostly for small jobs.
–Thankyou

If the machine is like this one – http://cgi.ebay.com/3-NEEDLES+MANUALS-Singer-20-Toy-Child-Sewing-Machine_W0QQitemZ400056692263QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090619?IMSfp=TL090619179001r20184

It takes style 24×1 needles and the only ones I found are either on a Chinese website or this site on Ebay – http://cgi.ebay.com/10-NEEDLES-MORE-Singer-20-Toy-Child-Sewing-Machine_W0QQitemZ400057304465QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d25460591&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1205%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Maybe someone in the family will help you buy a new machine, for which accessories are easy to find.

Here they are
http://www.chroniclebooks.com/index/main,book-info/store,books/products_id,5212/title,The-Knit-It-Kit-for-Kids/

http://www.weekendkits.com/gigi-kids-knitting-kit.html

It’s really difficult to say which one is better. They are very similar, but with some differences. I have not used either of these, so my opinions are based on kits in general, and what I can see about these.

You will notice that they all come with instructions, needles, yarn, and patterns. But one has bamboo straight needles, and the other has circular. I tend to prefer the circular anyway, and knitting is the same on either one. But it may confuse, or frighten, experienced knitters. Beginners don’t know the difference.

One has a sewing needle — not necessary, but nice to have. The prices vary.

The really important thing in this whole equation of which is better is the interest of the learner. If they want to learn, they will. If not, no kind of "best" kit will help.

I still feel that a live loving and caring person teaching a youngster is the best way to learn. You get personal attention (children need that) from an understanding adult that gives encouragement, even when they make mistakes. The children need some guidance, some goals to strive for, but mostly they need the sharing that comes from someone giving of themselves to them personally. We lack so much of that in this automated impersonal world. Those old-fashioned values are still important.

If you want to get a kit for your child (grand-child), any kit will do. Even a pair of your old needles, some of your "good" yarn, and your own personal guided instructions. Cast on for them, show them how to knit, and let them go at it! As time goes on, they will ask for other steps.. and you show them. Remember: someone had to teach you once long ago! Have patience.

I need to find either "Bryspun" or another brand of flexible knitting needles.
Any suggestions would be very helpful.
Thanks
I want straight needles. Not the circular ones.
Thanks, I found some "Susan Bates" flexible Crystalites. They work great & don’t strain my hands.

It depends on what you mean by flexible.

Bryspun are plastic straight needles and may bend slightly without breaking, but I wouldn’t call them flexible. Bamboo needles are about the same.

However, both kinds are produced in circular needle form which have firm points but a flexible cable in the middle that allow you to work in a circle.

Can you tell what kind of carpet is the kind that has about and inch and a half of little yarn strands hanging out? Please?

Shag or some other form called a frieze , which has a bit shorter yarn system . Friezes sometimes are a combo of loops and longer yarns or thick and thin yarns.
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL