I just cant master knitting socks can anyone help?
Posted on February 5th, 2010 by admin
I am new to knitting and recently bought two different kits for knitting socks. However they both use language that i dont understand and i just cant work out what i am supposed to do. The end result is entertaining though!!!.
Can anyone recommend a simple step by step idiots guide for knitting socks for a beginner?
Many thanks
Check the local JoAnn’s for a book called I Can’t Believe I’m Knitting Socks
The book shows each part of a basic sock in a different color so you can easily understand WHAT they are talking about when they call for the Heel Flap, the Heel, the Gusset, etc.
It also calls for size 4 needles and a worsted weight yarn (Paton’s Classic Wool) which is much easier than starting out with a size 2 needle and very thin sock yarn.
I know how to knit the "Magic Loop" and I hate it. I learned so that I could answer questions at work. HOWEVER, when I knit socks I use a 12 inch circular Addi Turbo for the leg and foot. I use only 2 of the 4 needles in a set of double pointed needles for the Heel Flap and Heel. I use the 4 double pointed needles for the last few rows of the toe only. I HIGHLY recommend bamboo needles for beginners if you are going to use just the double pointed needles because double pointed metal needles are quite slipperly and it is too easy to drop stitches.
Though it is possible to pick up stitches with a knitting needle it is much easier to use a crochet hook (size B for sock yarn; size F for worsted weight yarn).
There are two videos on the internet which explain kitchener stitch. Look for the one in brown and beige rather than the one using only blue yarn.
February 6th, 2010 at 2:01 am
You have picked one of the hardest items to knit. If you tell us what instructions you do not understand we might be able to translate for you.
References :
February 6th, 2010 at 2:26 am
There might be a knitting group near where you live. Try and find out. I’m a beginner, and all I’ve ever made was a jumper, cardigan and some scarves. There are some online videos for you to watch too, have a look. But I find with knitting it’s always easier if you have an experienced knitter to show you how.
References :
February 6th, 2010 at 2:58 am
Well done, a bit ambitious if you are just starting knitting. Try your local wool shop as my one
has a lady who knits and will show me anything I have problems with.
I know the wool shops are going, but do hope you have one in your area.
References :
February 6th, 2010 at 3:40 am
Knitting socks is no more difficult than any other knitting, in fact, IMO, it’s easier, because once you get past the ribbing, if there is no patterning in the sock leg/foot itself, you just knit, knit, knit. However, you are right, understanding the pattern the first time can be daunting. The first thing you have to do is cast on and divide the stitches. My personal preference in double pointed needles is to use a set of 5 birch needles. 4 needles hold the stitches and you knit with the 5th. Cast all your stitches onto one needle as you normally would (I prefer to knit or cable cast on these, rather than the backwards loop). Make sure the stitches are not twisted around the needle. Take a second needle and move half of your stitches onto the second needle by slipping them, and fold the needles so the stitches are folded in half next to one another, with the first stitch you cast on folded to the back and turn the needles, again making sure that there are no twists. Make sure your working yarn (the one that goes to the ball) is inside, but comes over the top of the needles, not inside them. Now, take the last stitch you cast on with a third needle, and move it to the needle with the first stitch, so they are next to one another. Lift the first stitch over the last stitch, and move it onto the needle where the last stitch originally had been. You are now joined with no twists. This is one of the two most crucial things here <G>, and this method works for any other circular projects you knit. You’ll also find that there is no little jog at the edge of the work as well. Work your cuff ribbing as instructed by the pattern, knitting with an empty needle until your stitches are divided according to the pattern ( usually on three needles it is 1/4. 1/2, 1/4 of the stitches, on four needles, each holds 1/4 of the stitches). It is usually either a k1, p1 ribbing or k2, p2, but some ladies socks call for a picot edge. If yours does, e-mail me.
When you get to the heel flap you will knit half the stitches only, and you will knit flat (back and forth like you do on straight needles). Most heels call for what is known as bird’s eye stitch, where on the public row you slip a stitch as if to purl with the yarn in the back, knit a stitch across. Then you purl back. On an adult sock the flap is usually 2 1/2 to 3 inches long. Then you turn the heel. Turning the heel makes the little cup that goes under your heel in a sock and it is worked on what are called *short rows*. Short rows are ones where you do not knit all the stitches in a row, but only part of them, wrapping the next unworked stitch by slipping it to the right needle, bringing the yarn forward or back (depending on if it’s a knit or purl row) and slipping the stitch back to the left needle. On the first row you work about 2/3 of the stitches of the heel flap, by knitting to 3 stitches less than 2/3, knitting 2 together and knitting the last one, wrap and turn, and then work back about half of those stitches (depending on the pattern) in purl, purling 2 together and purl 1. This is where you have to read and trust the pattern, even though it doesn’t make sense. You will not have worked all the stitches on either needle at this point and won’t until the very last row of the heel turn.
Then you pick up the gusset (look at any hand knit sock, including any photos in your pattern, the gusset is that slanting row of stitches from the top corner of the heel out to the foot, the extra fabric here lets you put the sock on easily). Remember those slipped stitches on the heel flap? Well, this is where you will pick up the gusset stitches (you pattern may say pick up and knit). Making sure you are working clockwise around the sock again, take an empty needle and slip it under the V shaped stitch at the very top of the edge of the heel turn, wrap and pull through a stitch onto the needle under both sides of the V stitch. Pick up one stitch this way for each V down the edge of the flap to the corner of the foot. At that corner there will be a longish strand between the cuff and the heel lift this strand with your needle so the left edge falls to the back of the needle and knit in the back, now work across the cuff stitches on the next needle(s) with a new empty needle, and when you get to the other side of the flap, again, you’ll pick up under that corner and under the V stitchees on that side. Yes, you’ve now run out of needles. That’s ok. Knit across half of the heel stitches with the same needle. And you’re still out of needles. Still ok, take the needle on the first side of the heel and slip the remaining stitches to that, which frees up your needle and makes this set of stitches the start of a new set of rounds. Knit the gusset stitches to the last 3 on this needle, k2tog, k1, work across the cuff (now the instep) stitches. At the next heel corner, k 1, ssk (slip the next 2 stitches individually as if to knit them, then insert
References :
I have been knitting for 55 years, and crocheting for 38.
February 6th, 2010 at 4:27 am
Check the local JoAnn’s for a book called I Can’t Believe I’m Knitting Socks
The book shows each part of a basic sock in a different color so you can easily understand WHAT they are talking about when they call for the Heel Flap, the Heel, the Gusset, etc.
It also calls for size 4 needles and a worsted weight yarn (Paton’s Classic Wool) which is much easier than starting out with a size 2 needle and very thin sock yarn.
I know how to knit the "Magic Loop" and I hate it. I learned so that I could answer questions at work. HOWEVER, when I knit socks I use a 12 inch circular Addi Turbo for the leg and foot. I use only 2 of the 4 needles in a set of double pointed needles for the Heel Flap and Heel. I use the 4 double pointed needles for the last few rows of the toe only. I HIGHLY recommend bamboo needles for beginners if you are going to use just the double pointed needles because double pointed metal needles are quite slipperly and it is too easy to drop stitches.
Though it is possible to pick up stitches with a knitting needle it is much easier to use a crochet hook (size B for sock yarn; size F for worsted weight yarn).
There are two videos on the internet which explain kitchener stitch. Look for the one in brown and beige rather than the one using only blue yarn.
References :